The first time I sat down at a $1/$3 game, I picked that table for the dumbest possible reason: it was the one with an open seat. Nobody had told me that stakes are a choice, and that choosing badly is one of the fastest ways to have a miserable, expensive night.
Something worth internalizing early: the stake you pick decides how much a normal losing session costs you, how nervous you feel while the cards are in the air, and how fast you actually improve. Sit too high and a couple of routine downswings can wipe out money you needed for real life. Sit too low and you’re bored, half-focused, and not learning much. This guide is how I’d pick now, knowing what I know.
What “stakes” actually mean
In a cash game, the stakes are named after the blinds. A “$1/$3” game means a $1 small blind and a $3 big blind. Those two numbers set the scale of everything — the size of a normal bet, the size of a normal pot, and how much money you should bring.
Each stake has a typical buy-in (what you sit down with) and a rough sense of how big the swings get. Here are the common live low-stakes games you’ll actually see:
| Stakes | Typical buy-in | Feel |
|---|---|---|
| $1/$2 | $100–$300 | The classic beginner game. Loose, forgiving, everywhere. |
| $1/$3 | $200–$500 | A notch bigger; slightly more aggressive, still very beatable. |
| $2/$5 | $500–$1,000 | A real jump. Stronger regulars, bigger swings, more thinking. |
Online, the same idea runs much lower — you’ll see micro-stakes like 1c/2c or 5c/10c, which are perfect for practicing volume cheaply. If you want the difference spelled out, I cover it in online poker vs live poker.
The rule that matters most: your bankroll
Your bankroll is the money you’ve set aside specifically for poker — not your rent, not your savings, money you can lose without it touching your life. Everything about choosing stakes starts here, because poker has swings. Even good players lose for weeks at a time. That’s just variance doing its thing.
The way you survive those swings is by having enough buy-ins behind you that a bad run can’t bust you. A common guideline for cash games is to keep at least 20 buy-ins for the stake you’re playing, and 30 or more if you want to barely feel the swings. So:
- $1/$2 at a $200 buy-in → roughly $4,000–$6,000 to play it as a regular game
- $1/$3 at a $300 buy-in → roughly $6,000–$9,000
- $2/$5 at a $500 buy-in → roughly $10,000–$15,000
If those numbers made you wince, good — that’s the point. Most beginners drastically underestimate how much bankroll a stake really wants. For the full breakdown of why those multiples exist, read bankroll management for low-stakes poker, and use the Bankroll Calculator to get an exact number for the stake you’re eyeing.
A quick honest note: plenty of recreational players sit at $1/$2 or $1/$3 without a full 20-buy-in bankroll, because they reload from their paycheck and treat it like entertainment spending. That’s a legitimate choice — as long as you know that’s what you’re doing and you’re only risking money you’re fully okay losing. The 20-buy-in rule is for treating poker as a game you want to beat over time, not a fun night out.
It’s not only about money
Bankroll tells you the highest stake you can afford. Two other things tell you where you should actually sit.
Skill and experience. If you’re still learning hand rankings, position, and pot odds, start low. The lowest live game or micro-stakes online is where mistakes are cheap and lessons are plentiful. There’s no prize for learning expensive lessons at $2/$5.
Comfort. This one gets ignored and it’s huge. If the money on the table is big enough that you’re scared to bet, scared to call, scared to lose — you will play badly. You’ll fold hands you should raise and call when you should fold, purely because the numbers scare you. A good test: if a full buy-in disappearing would genuinely upset you, drop down a level. You play your best poker when the money feels meaningful but not frightening.
How to actually pick
Put it together and the decision gets simple. Work down this list:
- Set your bankroll — the money you’ve truly walled off for poker.
- Find the stake your bankroll supports using the 20-plus-buy-in guideline (or the Bankroll Calculator).
- Drop a level if you’re new — experience beats theory, and cheap reps are gold.
- Drop a level if the money scares you — comfort at the table is worth more than the slightly higher win rate above your comfort zone.
- Bring the right amount for that stake — usually a full buy-in or two, covered in how much money to bring.
When those all point at the same game, that’s your stake. For most people reading this, the honest answer is: start at the lowest live game your room spreads (often $1/$2), or micro-stakes online, and don’t be in a hurry to climb.
When to change stakes
You’re not locked in. As your bankroll and skill grow, moving up makes sense — but there’s a right way to do it that avoids blowing up, and a right way to move down without ego getting in the way. That whole topic has its own guide: when to move up (and down) in stakes.
The short version: only think about moving up once you’re a proven winner at your current game with a bankroll to match. And never be too proud to move down when your roll shrinks — the best players do it without blinking.
Poker involves risk and should be played responsibly. Only play with money you can afford to lose. MazaPoker is an educational resource and does not guarantee winnings or financial results.
Frequently asked questions
What stakes should a beginner start at?
Start at the lowest game available — usually $1/$2 live, or micro-stakes (a few cents per blind) online. The mistakes you’ll make while learning are far cheaper there, and the players are more forgiving. There’s no benefit to starting higher, and plenty of downside.
How much money do I need to play $1/$2 or $1/$3?
To sit down, bring one to two buy-ins (often $200–$600 depending on the room). To play the stake regularly without going broke during a downswing, aim for at least 20 buy-ins in your bankroll — roughly $4,000+ for $1/$2. Recreational players who reload from income often play with less, which is fine as long as it’s money they’re truly okay losing.
Should I play higher stakes to win more money?
Not until your bankroll and skill support it. Higher stakes mean bigger swings and tougher opponents, so jumping up early usually just means losing faster. Your win rate matters more than the stake — being a consistent winner at $1/$2 beats being a losing player at $2/$5 every time.
Is it bad to move down in stakes?
No — it’s smart. Moving down when your bankroll drops (or when the game is too tough) protects your money and your confidence. Good players treat moving down as a normal tool, not a failure. Ego is what keeps people stuck in games they can’t afford.
Key takeaways
- Stakes are named after the blinds ($1/$2, $1/$3, $2/$5) and set the scale of everything — bets, pots, and swings.
- Your bankroll picks the ceiling. Keep at least 20 buy-ins for a stake you play regularly; use the Bankroll Calculator for an exact number.
- Skill and comfort pick where you actually sit. New players and anyone scared of the money should drop a level.
- For most beginners, the right answer is the lowest live game (often $1/$2) or micro-stakes online — and no rush to move up.
- You can always change stakes as you grow; just do it deliberately, not on tilt.
Ready to put a real number on it? Run your bankroll through the Bankroll Calculator, then read bankroll management for low-stakes poker and figure out how much money to bring to your first session. More practical guides live in the Play Poker hub.
